Experience Taiwan’s Colonial History at Fort San Domingo

Fort San Domingo in Tamsui is an important historical monument whose ownership has passed from country to country over its 300 year history. It was first built by the Spanish, who established a permanent colony on Heping Island in 1626 and then moved to take Tamsui in 1629, erecting a wooden fort that was later burned down by locals protesting Spanish taxes. In 1637 the Spanish rebuilt the fort using stone, but it wasn’t long before the Dutch, annoyed at Spanish “injuring” their trade, launched a succession of attacks, successfully claiming the land as their own.

The Spanish razed their own fort, causing the Dutch to rebuild it in 1644, which is the structure that we still see today. The Dutch were able to hold onto the fort until ousted by the Chinese in 1683, who kept it until 1867. The gate you can see below was part of a stone wall that they built in 1724, and is currently the only entrance.

The British took the fort after the Second Opium War in 1868, painting it red and making a few other structural changes. They also built their consular residence next to it in 1891, closing it temporarily during World War 2 and then permanently when they cut off diplomatic relations with Taiwan in 1972. The Taiwanese government retrieved the land in 1980, refurbishing it and reopening it to the public in 2005.

There are two things to see once inside: the fort itself (left), and the former British consulate (right). Inside the fort are several courtyards and jail cells with statues of their original Spanish occupants, giving it an intensely European vibe that seems out of place in Taiwan. There are also a few plaques and information boards, but little is in English and most of it isn’t very interesting.

The former British consulate is a pretty, photogenic building with lovely arches that are swarmed by people taking selfies. There is a little cafe area next to it where you can sit and enjoy a drink under the shade of several trees.

There are a few furnished rooms on the inside that give you a peek into the life of the buildings former residents, as well as some informative signs. Once again, it’s not particularly interesting unless you have a specific interest in the topic, and doesn’t give much historical context.

Despite the fort and former being perfectly placed to learn about Taiwan’s fascinating colonial history, most of what we learned was through the internet when researching this article. This is a massive shame, as we had our minds blown multiple times while reading the about its history, especially on the Wikipedia page on Dutch Formosa. There was some pretty nasty stuff going on, with the Dutch trying to forcefully convert aborigines to Christianity as well as ordering them to give up (among other things) their women for sex. When the Chinese took over, they took many Dutch women as “concubines,” which apparently led to physical characteristics such as auburn hair being present in some Taiwanese people even today. To truly understand the historical significance of the fort, we recommend you have some understanding of its history before you visit — here’s a brief, two-minute long video on YouTube that gives a decent introduction to the topic.

Even though we felt that certain aspects of the fort could be improved for tourists, it’s an undeniably beautiful place to visit. We had low expectations when we went, having heard that it wasn’t worth the trip from Taipei. Looking back, we would probably agree — don’t come all the way to Tamsui just to visit, but if you are already in the area it’s a great addition to your trip. The buildings and gardens are well kept, and there are beautiful views of the Tamsui River and Guanyin Mountain. As you can see, it’s a stunning place to take photos and is worth admiring for its place in history.

What’s the vibe?

300 year old fort overlooking the Tamsui river, surrounded by greenery. Expect lots of tourists taking photos (mostly of themselves). The grounds are pretty small but very nice.

Worth it?

Yes, if it’s part of a day trip to Tamsui. We personally wouldn’t recommend coming all the way from Taipei just to see this, as there’s not much to see or read about. However, it’s a beautiful spot and a fascinating part of Taiwanese history. Entry is only NT$80. To get the best out of your trip, research the history a little before you go!

Would you go again? 

Surprisingly, yes. Probably not by ourselves, but we’d definitely bring people here if we were in Tamsui. And now that we’ve learned a little more about its place in history, it would be nice to see it again with fresh eyes.

Fort San Domingo

Chinese Name: 淡水紅毛城

Hours: 9:30am – 5pm

Phone: 02 2623 1001

English Address: No.1, Lane 28, Zhongzheng Rd., Tamsui District, New Taipei City

Chinese Address: 251新北市淡水區中正路28巷1號