Bencotto: Italian Cuisine in the Mandarin Oriental

There’s nothing quite like having an excellent Italian meal in a beautiful setting, and a restaurant we recently discovered offers just that. Bencotto, located in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Songshan, is an elegant Italian establishment with a gorgeous rustic design and a relaxed atmosphere. Boasting an Italian chef and a large open kitchen, Bencotto offers a fresh, creative take on classic Italian cuisine in warm, cosy surroundings.

Bencotto is definitely upscale, just as you would imagine any restaurant located inside a five-star hotel to be. There is a smart elegant dress code that prohibits open shoes and requires a collared shirt for men, while encouraging smart elegant attire for women. Slippers are not deemed appropriate. Despite the dress code and classy decor, however, Bencotto still feels open and welcoming.  Staff were sweet and courteous from the get-go, seating us with a smile and patiently attending to our every need.

As soon as we were seated, our attentive server got us settled with a truly exquisite glass of wine from their extensive wine list and some home-made bread. A little cart featuring several olive oils and balsamic vinegar was wheeled over to us so we could choose the flavours of our bread dip — a nice touch. We struggled with the choice at first, as each oil and vinegar was incredible and unique. Our server let us sample each one, and we appreciated the care and patience with which she introduced them as it made our final decision easier.

Our first order was the selezione di salumi misti ($960) — a selection of Italian cold cuts and accompaniments chosen by the chef. This was the perfect appetizer that included marinated olives, prosciutto, artichokes, salami, chia seed crackers, and some other mouth-watering pieces. We loved picking at this and savouring the quality ingredients while sipping our wine and chatting.

The next dish we ordered was one of our favourites of the night — saluto alla mia terra ($480), caramelized eggplant, bread and tomato with Tuscan pecorino foam. Maybe we’re biased because we’re massive eggplant lovers, but this was incredible. Each sweet and salty bite melted in our mouths and it was hard to resist the urge to scrape the plate.

Since we’d all agreed that we couldn’t have an Italian meal without ordering pizza, the next dish we ordered was the Il Crudo pizza ($880) with tomato sauce, mozzarella, prosciutto ham, arugula and burrata cheese. This was divine. The crust was perfectly thick and chewy, and the prosciutto, arugula and burrata were an excellent combination of flavours and textures. We’d absolutely recommend ordering this.

Possibly the best dish of the night was the risotto ala marinara ($980), a seafood risotto served over a selection of raw seafood that included red prawns, oysters, sea urchins, mussels and clams. This came heavily recommended to us and although we originally failed to see the appeal, we were sold on the first bite. The risotto was rich and flavourful — not at all stodgy — with a hint of citrus lightening it up and adding a beautiful fresh twist. We loved the way it came piping hot and partially cooked the seafood underneath as it was slowly spooned on top. We couldn’t stop raving about this dish for the rest of the night, and highly recommend you give it a try.

Our last savoury dish of the night was definitely the most extravagant — the tagliatelle all’astice ($2680), butter-poached Boston lobster served with tagliatelle pasta in an Italian basil and coral sauce. This was just as delicious as you’d imagine. The lobster was sweet and soft beyond belief, to the point where it felt silky and buttery in our mouths as we ate it. The tagliatelle was beautiful too, deliciously understated to complement the delicate flavours of the lobster.

Just as we were about to call it a night, the dessert cart rolled in, displaying a mouth-watering array of sweet treats. We loved the experience of being able to see everything in front of us, although this definitely contributed to our over-ordering of desserts.

After much deliberation, the very first dessert we sampled was the torta della Nonna ($320). Simple but extraordinary, this tart consisted of soft pastry, creamy, zesty lemon custard, pine nuts dusted with icing sugar, and a dollop of mascarpone cream on top. It was heavenly — the custard was smooth and sweet, with just the right amount of tartness from the lemon. We loved the way the pine nuts added some depth to the flavour while still being very mild and pleasant in terms of texture. We loved this dessert and highly recommend it.

We would be remiss not to mention how incredible the traditional tiramisu ($320) was, either. This decadent treat was heaven in our mouths; the alcohol and espresso evident in every bite without dominating the creamy sweetness of the custard and mascarpone. We paired this with a double espresso and savoured every spoonful.

Next, we went for the crostata di frutta fresca ($320), a mascarpone tart with fresh berries. This was satisfyingly sweet and creamy, quite similar to a cheesecake but without the heaviness. This was a lovely dessert option, but unfortunately got outshone slightly by the tiramisu and Nonna cake.

Last but not least, we went for a classic: vanilla gelato with coffee espresso ($320).  We expected to be bored by this dessert in comparison to the others, but its beauty lay in its simplicity. Strong, fragrant espresso drizzled over a disk of melting chocolate onto a sophisticated vanilla gelato made for an extremely tasty, refined affogato that was the perfect finish to our meal.

Check out their full dinner and lunch menu down below:

All things considered, we had the best time at Bencotto. It goes without saying that it’s the sort of restaurant best suited for special occasions as it’s definitely pricey, but everything we ate was absolutely fantastic and the overall dining experience was phenomenal too. We loved the warm service and the attention to detail, like the way you could choose which oil and vinegar to have with your bread. Bencotto may not be somewhere we’d consider for a casual weekday dinner, but it’s firmly on our list for date nights, celebrations, and any time you want to treat yourself to stellar Italian food and wine.

What’s the vibe?

An upscale Italian restaurant that still feels warm and welcoming despite the higher price point and smart elegant dress code. Customers were a mix of local and foreign, with many coming from the hotel itself.

Worth it?

Yes. We were highly satisfied with everything, from the food to the wine, decor, and the service. It’s not cheap, but you wouldn’t come here if you were looking for a cheap restaurant.

Would you go back?

Yes! This would be a nice place to host an intimate celebratory dinner with friends.

Last updated February 2020

Bencotto

Hours: 12–2:30PM 5:30–10PM

Phone: 02 2715 6868

English Address: No. 158, DunHua N Rd, Songshan District, Taipei City

Chinese Address: 台北市松山區敦化北路158號