Relax and Rejuvenate at Beitou Hot Springs

How many major cities in the world can boast hot springs WITHIN the city limits? It’s one of Taipei’s best and most unique qualities, and it’s a nice option to have during chilly winter months.

Beitou is a beautiful geothermal region that’s conveniently accessible by MRT. It’s a great spot for a quick retreat from downtown — in less than an hour you can be soaking in a hot spring surrounded by forests and mountains, feeling a world away from the rush of the city.

Here’s how to get there:

First, take the red line on the MRT north to Beitou station, where you’ll be treated to a nice view of the nearby mountains. Then transfer to the local pink line which has only a single stop at Xinbeitou Station.

Get off at Xinbeitou station and you’ll find yourself in a sleepy town, walking along quiet streets lined with shops. There are dozens of hot spring hotels and resorts located right next to the train station, but that’s not all there is to do. Check the zone guide maps to find the locations of attractions like the Thermal Valley, Hot Spring Museum, Plum Garden, Puji Temple, Beitou Library, the Outdoor Public Hot Spring, and more.

Why not stop for a freshly squeezed orange juice at one of the street stalls? Yum!

We visited the Beitou Hot Spring Area on a Saturday afternoon in January. Our first destination was the Thermal Valley, which was located a ten minute walk up the road from the train station. It was easy to find thanks to the signs!

Also known as “Hell Valley,” the Thermal Valley is a volcanic depression filled with a pool of hot water that’s fed from deep within the Earth. The water is so hot it’s approaching boiling point. At around 90 degrees, it’s obviously far too scalding to swim in. Steam constantly rises from the pool — watching it dance, swirl, and sweep along the surface of the water was mesmerizing.

The volcanic hot spring is rich in minerals. Sulphur turns the water a light green colour, and the pool even has traces of radioactive radium. After sedimentation, it crystallizes to form a very rare mineral called hokutolite that’s only found in 2 places on earth: Beitou, Taiwan and Tamagawa Hot Spring in Senboku, Japan.

It’s said that this green sulphur spring has healing and rehabilitation effects. It’s the source of all the hot spring baths in the Xinbeitou region.

After sweating from the rising steam, we decided it was time for a soak.

Millennium Hot Spring is the main public bath house in Beitou. Men and women share these outdoor pools, so swimwear is mandatory. What we didn’t know was how strict they are with the dress code. Any kind of swim shorts or trunks cannot be worn by men; you must wear a jammer-style suit that’s form-fitting and reaches to the knees. It’s not the end of the world if you don’t have one — they sell the approved style in nearby stores — but it’s a bit of a nuisance.

You can purchase a NT$40 ticket from the machine outside and then join the queue. There are actually 2 hour “sessions” in which they let in a group of people to enjoy the hot springs. That entire group then clears out before the next enters.

The combination of improper swimwear and the long line of elderly folks made us decide not to enter the public hot springs. If you go, expect multiple outdoor pools of varying temperatures that can get crowded — especially during weekends in the winter.

Next, we planned to visit the Beitou Hot Spring Museum, but found this sign outside when we approached the covered doors. Note that the museum will be closed until October 26th, 2018 for renovations.

We’ll head back and update this post once it reopens!

After striking out on two different attractions, we decided to book a private hot spring. Rather than research our options, we saw this sign advertising the cheap price of NT$300 for 2 people for 40 minutes and thought, “Wow, what a deal!”

Our lesson for the day: you get what you pay for.

We were put in a small cubicle with this dirty tub, which took literally 20 minutes to fill — half of our allotted time.

At least we were able to laugh at our own idiocy! And the hot water was relaxing despite the less-than-lavish conditions.

Clearly unsatisfied, we did a bit of searching online and came back a couple weeks later with a hotel booked. We got a relatively cheap price for a Spring Suite with Marble Tub at the Chyuan Du Spring Resort, located a stone’s throw from Xinbeitou Station.

There are a lot of hot spring hotels in the area, both budget and high-end. Take some time to do a bit of research online before booking. Prices fluctuate based on the day of the week and the season (winters are more expensive). Check Agoda and Booking for some great deals on overnight stays.

Most hotels also offer the option for a private hot spring soaking without booking a room. They charge hourly rates to use their tubs. You can find more information on individual hotel websites, or simply walk into hotels once you’re there to inquire.

 

This was what our Spring Suite at Chyuan Du Spring Resort looked like. It had a large tub that filled with 40 degree water from the hot spring.

Breakfast was also included in the price of the hotel room. It had mostly Taiwanese food — the steamed buns were delicious — but there were also Western options like sweet potato fries (an unlikely breakfast choice, but why not?).

After finishing up, we checked out and walked to Xinbeitou station for the short train ride back downtown.

Beitou provides a relaxing escape from the city — whether it’s for a day trip or an overnight stay. Take advantage of this conveniently accessible hot spring region this winter in Taipei!

Visited: January 2018